Selling Movement: Routesetting Is a Product (Chapter 2)

This story is the second chapter of a five-chapter series on Professional Routesetting: The Truth Behind the Trade. On May 30th, 2021, Natalia Grossman and Sean Bailey swept Gold at Salt Lake City’s Bouldering World Cup finale. Tens of thousands of people that night were enraptured by the mesmerizing performances of these two historic champions. But at the venue and online, I know most viewers were transfixed on how painstakingl

Professional Routesetting: The Truth Behind the Trade (Chapter 1)

This story is the first chapter of a five-chapter series on Professional Routesetting: The Truth Behind the Trade. In the spring of 2018, after nearly two decades of full-time commercial and competition routesetting, Carlo Traversi offered me the Head Setter position―an absolute dream job―at his new facility, The Boulder Field, in Sacramento, California. I stepped into the role more excited than a kid at a candy store.

A Longtime Climber on Losing His Home to the Oak Fire

“Overwhelmed with thoughts of death and my newly balding head, on July 22, I went back to Mount Bullion and pulled up to the summit. There, I watched flames devouring my old neighborhood. Under the blackness of night, burning red lit up the hillsides. It looked like I was peering into the gates of Hell. “Early reports said the blaze charred 10 homes, which was later updated to 41. The flames took out every inch of terrain I’d e-biked this year. My Strava report says I have spent 150 hours since

“I was ready to not be able to climb for the rest of my life": Jessie Tan, MD, Finds New Perspective

Sacramento Emergency Medicine Doctor, Jessie Tan, finds a new perspective on life and climbing after facing unexpected challenges during the height of the pandemic: He was suicidal six out of seven days a week. If the air temperature went above 72 degrees, his body flared with hives and the sensation of being burned alive. “I was ready to not be able to climb for the rest of my life,” Jessie said.
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